Culture

Dior by Marc Bohan, Explores 30 Years of Design

Dior Celebrates the Work of Marc Bohan in 3rd Book of Anthology Series: A look back at Marc Bohan’s work spanning from 1961-1989.

Green Park day dress in scarlet wool, Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 1961, Charme 62
collection. Dior Héritage collection, Paris. (1987.117). Photo © Laziz Hamani

Dior by Marc Bohan, published by Assouline, is the third in a series of seven books devoted to the designers who succeeded each other at the head of the House. Available from April, the book looks back on three decades of Dior history. This rich heritage is recounted by the writer and journalist Jérôme Hanover and documented by hundreds of images of dresses shot by Laziz Hamani along with archival photographs.

Tunic dress in cotton embroidered with silver thread, beads, and blue and pink paillettes,
Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1966. The Metropolitan Museum of Art collection,
New York. Gift of Baron Philippe de Rothschild, 1983 (1983.619.4)
Photo © Laziz Hamani

The descriptive portraits of a selection of forty creations reveal the inspirations, universe and personality of Marc Bohan, with whom the author met numerous times, to tell the story of the longest relationship between a designer and the house of Dior. In the spring of 1957 Christian Dior offered Marc Bohan a position working for him. At that time, the designer already had an assistant, Yves Saint Laurent, so he intended entrusting him with his New York couture outpost. But fate had decided otherwise.

Trapeze-style dress in black cotton canvas, Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1969.
Dior Héritage collection, Paris. (2016.268). Photo © Laziz Hamani

After the death of Christian Dior and following an experience across the Chanel, during which he jolted the habits of the English clients, on September 28, 1960, Marc Bohan became the House’s third Creative Director. In 1961, as a result of his first autumn-winter collection dubbed the Slim Look, he ushered in the era of women dressed in an unhindered manner. “The silhouette is supple, slim, the shoulders are natural, the waist sinuous, the hips are very flat. The skirts flare gently in an alert movement and stop just below the knee,” the collection’s press release noted.

Evening ensemble in black velvet embroidered with gold, metallic gray, and black
paillettes, embellished with cockerel feathers at the waist, Haute Couture Autumn-
Winter 1986. Palais Galliera, City of Paris Fashion Museum collection. Gift of Christian
Dior (GAL1987.237.1AB). Photo © Laziz Hamani

Over the course of three decades, from 1961 to 1989, Marc Bohan established close links with the world of the arts and the most famous personalities of the time, including the artist Niki de Saint Phalle. His fondness for faraway cultures enabled the designer to infuse the House with this particular spirit of discovery and freedom, without ever losing sight of his objective: “To make sophisticated clothes simply, with a touch of insolence every now and then”.

Evening dress in yellow silk gazar, Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1983. FIDM Museum
at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising collection, Los Angeles. gift of Mrs.
Alfred Bloomingdale (2006.116.1B/B). Photo: © Laziz Hamani

Credits: © Courtesy of Christian Dior Couture PR

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Rosalba Radica

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