Burberry Reminisces “Memories” of Britain & Afar in London Fashion Week Fall Winter 2020
“Moving back to London recently – a city I first discovered as a young student – gave me a real sense of nostalgia. It was the place where I learnt to be myself and a city where I gained the confidence to be the man that I am today. I have this strong feeling of pride when I think about the early days of my career, when I was an emerging designer still learning my craft and taking inspiration wherever I could find it.
The memory of this special and formative time in my life is what has influenced this collection – from the places I visited and the people that surrounded me to the music that inspired me. It is this side of my personal journey that I wanted to blend with the codes and language that I have started to define here at Burberry.” Riccardo Tisci, Burberry Chief Creative Officer
Named Memories, Riccardo Tisci’s Autumn/Winter 2020 collection for Burberry takes inspiration from reflections of his early years as a young designer, whilst continuing to solidify key codes for the fashion house.
The collection captures Riccardo’s memories of the diverse places he visited, discovering who he was as a designer whilst developing his craft. From Italy where he was raised, to London where he studied, to India where he moved after graduating. The collection combines signature Burberry pieces – from trench coats, tailoring and duffle coats – with modern silhouettes, prints and fabrications.
The trench coat softened with off-the-shoulder silhouettes, exaggerated ties, curly shearling and faux fur. A car coat, blouson and blazer spliced with voluminous capes. Long collarless coats in double wool-cashmere and leather and equestrian-inspired quilted jackets.
Panelled tailoring, jodhpurs, fluted skirts and reconstructed shirt dresses in collaged check. Layered cricket stripes and prints, and cinched rugby-style dresses. Gathered details on dresses and blouses. Evening silhouettes in fluid chain mail, plaid and jersey – contoured with crystal fringing and ring-pierced cut outs.
Outerwear is explored through textural contrasts and updated check prints. The car coat combined with a field jacket. The duffle coat panelled in plaid wool and felted cashmere. Classic trench coats with attached hoodies, puffer jackets and double-lapel details.
English-fit jackets with reconstructed cuffs and lapels, styled with slim tailored trousers, silk-twill shirts and sweaters – all patchworked in plaid. Low-slung tapered trousers in tailored wool and plonge lambskin, reworked rugby shirts, and silk-chiffon tunic silhouettes.
Introducing the Olympia bag collection, featuring a shoulder bag in three sizes and a crossbody bag. Fabrications include Monogram jacquard, star-appliquéd suede and smooth structured leather in rich saturated tones.
A supersized Pocket Bag, Society holdall and duffle bag in plaid. A metal paillette clutch for evening. The Arthur sneaker is updated with a Cuban heel, a new hybrid style for men and women. Sculptural point-toe pumps, mules and boots with wraparound tie details. Men’s Derby shoes are reworked with a square toe and Cuban heel in polished leather and check cotton. Transparent disc earrings with logoed studs, and earrings and rings with sculptural silhouettes.
Burberry beige and grey with black, dark green, russet and metallic accents.
Exploration of checks from Burberry House check and tartan to Prince of Wales plaid and muted shades of beige and red. The animal kingdom evolves through spotted monkey prints and elephant motifs.
Renowned pianists Katia and Marielle Labèque and producer Arca performed a live soundscape curated for the show featuring ‘Distant Places’ composed by David Chalmin, ‘Fantasia in F minor’ composed by Franz Schubert and ‘Four Movements for Two Pianos’ composed by Philip Glass.
HAIR AND MAKE-UP
Make-up – Pat McGrath
Hair – Guido Palau
Credits: © Courtesy of Burberry Italy