Nicolas Ghesquière presents his Louis Vuitton Spring-Summer 2027 Collection live from Paris.
ERGONOMIE
The ergonomic. A notion of design fundamentally shaped by the conditions, capabilities and movement of the human body is the foundational principle of the Spring-Summer 2027 Louis Vuitton collection by Nicolas Ghesquière. There is an intuitive relationship, between object, body and action. A harmony.
An affinity can be forged between these modern concerns and the heritage of Louis Vuitton. They share an ideal of lightness, an essence of form defined by function, to ease movement, to travel. An ideology can translate across times and disciplines.
Ergonomic clothes are determined not by an external silhouette, but the physique inside. Garments are not moulded, but rather mould to the body. Nothing is rigid, everything is fluid, like a second skin serving to define physicality in motion. They are inherently engineered for action, with instinct at their root. They are also a reflection of the fact that the body is built for locomotion, not stasis.
Accordingly, pieces have an innate mutability, and an impossible lightness in their physicality.
Throughout, structure remains, but all rigidity is removed. Constructed in fluidity, materialities and silhouettes are calibrated to a kinetic body. Rather than curves or rigidity, clothes are conceived like anatomy, molding to its ever-fluctuating contours, transforming as it shifts and moves within.
A lightening, a sensation of simplification, a physiological ease. Pieces perceived as structureless are in actuality complex topographies, composed of different surface tensions that mirror the body inside. Cloth or leathers are laid against the wearer, resembling a second skin not in appearance but through sensation and function.
Everything ultralight. Fabrications defy physics, double and triple composite chiffons, carré silks and scarf fabrics in silk and cashmere, are used across a spectrum of garments. Traditional tailoring is reengineered, internal layers removed in a process of reduction and streamlining. Knitwear delineates, while footwear seems to ground these otherwise weightless forms.
A scenography as contradiction, rupture. A cityscape animated by singular figures, moving incongruously like a feather or balloon through a static vista, paused. The surrounding inertia serves as amplification for the impact of a motile individual – of a dynamic human body, in life.
Credits: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
